Steadicam  (and FIG Rig) and Monopod

Not a bad thread to read on HV20

Recommend you go to camera sites, createive cow, or other forums and do a search on Steadicam - but here is my compiled summary - not all my comments - just cut and paste mostly.

Merlin Steadicam $849 obvious why the Merlin is more expensive; it is the most streamlined, elegant and best designed of the bunch. The gimbal is centered under the weight which is less tiring than the Glidecam design (the Flycam is simply a knockoff of the Glidecam)...
 
Glidecam 2000 Pro or Glidecam 4000 Pro $370 for 2000 I've got a Glidecam 2000 Pro. (ebay)
Its brilliant, you only need the washer weight holder at the bottom, so its very light. Stupidly I didn't really do my research as I would have bought a 4000 Pro because I'm using a Brevis 35.
Anyway, works perfectly doesn't take long to master, takes about 15-20 mins to initially set it up properly and about 5mins thereafter.

4000 is for heavier cameras - and works with HV20 also
Manfrotto Modo Steady   The NEW y is three in one camera support for smaller domestic camcorders.
 
Bogin Manfrottos Fig Rig  $300 bare unit Bogin Manfrottos Fig Rig

 
FLYCAM PRO 5000--------------- $275  
PROMAX STEADYTRACKER------ $200  
Monopod cost of monopod Try it - attach camera and run with it - look at the footage - may be enough
 
     
Poor Man's Steadycam $14 http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~johnny/steadycam/
Another Poor Man's Steadycam  
http://www.hv20.com/showthread.php?t=4224&highlight=steadicam
Chain Stabilizer under $5
Found a very innovative solution to counter the wobbles on small camcorders like the hv20. Its called the chain pod first used by 19th century photographers to get a sharp picture on long exposures.
Attach a long thin metal chain to the base of the camera and step on the dangling end. Pull hard enough to create a stabilising tension. Viola! A monopod you can carry in a coin pouch.
     
Books on Building Devices   Swivel casters on the bottom of a tripod are a poor substitute for a 'proper' dolly, especially when a much better one can be made for the same money or less by any half-competent DIY'er. I often sing the praises of the book Killer Camera Rigs You Can Build (heck, I give copies as gifts),
     
Other Steadicam links   http://www.studio1productions.com/smoothcam.htm

http://www.varizoom.com/stabilizersindex.html

http://www.varizoom.com/supportsindex.html

 

AND NOW FOR SOME COMMENTS:


Now here is an open field - from type to price.  A camera is attached to a steadicam and movement is effected by the camera person physically walking or running or moving in some direction. What the steadicam does is smooths out any camera jerking - hopefully.

You can find steadicams in a multitude of price ranges.  Many videographers rent steadicams from video supply companies - although you can quickly pay for a steadicam within a few days rental.

One of the coolest steadicams is the Bogin Manfrottos Fig Rig - $300 bare unit

However - before you go ape over this steering wheel - read this from the Cow forum:

Name: Mark Suszko 
Date: Dec 7, 2006 at 3:19:35 pm
Subject:   Re: stabilizer or dv rig pro


Neither.

Well, I like a monopod for quickly moving to a new spot and taking fixed shots that are very stable. Monopods also let you take high-angle psuedo-jib shots if the camera is small. If you put enough weight near the bottom of one, it also acts like a fairly good motion stabilizer due to pendulum effect.

But for following kids around in activities, from medium to closeup distances, I like the Manfrotto Fig Rig. Better yet, the imitation one I made from a used bike rim and some welded steel. lower priced:-)

With the small handicam-form-factor camcorders, this is an awesome way to shoot while in motion. Mine cost me maybe ten bucks, the bike rim was free from the junk pile behind the bike shop, I think it was around 23 inches. I snipped off the spokes and lost the hub, sanded off the rust and had a friend spot weld perforated steel angle iron from ace hardware onto that. Tidied it up with black pipe wrap insulating foam and tie wraps. The grip and comfotrt is amazing, as is the stability and ability to effortlessly point and rotate under complete control. It's all in the leverage and where the ring lets you put that leverage. It helps a lot that when I use this rig it's with the intent of running the lens wide and not telephoto, moving the body and camera physically instead of zooming.

Try this, if it doesn't make you feel too wierd. Stop by the bike or auto accessory aisles of Walmart or similar. Pick up a spare 20-23-inch or so bike wheel/tire , or one of the automobile steering wheel covers in that section of the store. Holding at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, or just below there, hold the thing out in front of you and feel how it is to control it in height, pitch, and roll.

  AND

 

"I would say for ENG news and wedding reception type shooting, where you need to move quickly from point to point but then shoot very stable, perhaps with a motion-sensitive telephoto lens setting, for long periods that would tire you if hand-held/shoulder-held, a regular monopod is the ticket. Especially where there's just no room for a tripod, or it's too heavy.

Where the Fig Rig would work best is if you are working very close-in, lens full wide, and you need to move around a relatively stationary subject a lot and move at various heights, and there's no room for, or it's otherwise impractical to use dolly/jib/track.

The kind of stabilizer that uses a vest and arm is most fitting for use where you're going to have to walk or even jog along with the actors a bit and the terrain/situation makes a dolly or jib impractical.

My belief is too many people, especially beginners and indy "wannabees" ascribe supernatural powers to these stabilizing tools and insist on using them for every little thing when they should just be practicing good shot composition, good tripod and proper hand-held shooting technique, which works just fine, maybe better, 99 percent of the time"

AND

"These are two totally different animals.

The Fig Rig gains stability by imposing a two-hand grip on the rig, arms out, like holding a steering wheel (and that's what it looks like, a steering wheel with a camera on it). The big drawbacks are that any remaining hand shake will still affect your camera, and that your arms will tire quickly in this shooting position.

The Flowpod operates in two modes. It is a monopod, which gains stability by being in contact with the ground. In the stabilizer mode, it gains stability by being a pendulum, with the center of gravity below the pivot point. In this mode, it is similar to devices like the Glidecam and Steadicam JR.

As a monopod, it's just fine, although some have complained that it's a little shorter than they'd like. As a stabilizer, it shares the drawback with all similar devices of tiring the arm quickly. That's one reason why Varizoom also sells a vest and support arm that can be used with it. I've also seen correspondence from several Flowpod users who have complained that balancing the rig is tricky.

In my opinion, you can get probably 70-90% of the Flowpod's stabilizer effect with any ordinary monopod. Just hold it in a two-finger grip slightly below the camera mount. And that would be my recommendation: The best bang for the buck is an ordinary monopod, which costs under $100. If you need a stabilizer, get a "real" one...with a vest and support arm. But be prepared to spend $5000 to $10,000."